Sony a6000 extended capabilities

 https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4498751

Hi all,

This is my first post on this forum! I hope you'll find it useful.

I came across an interesting thing that I would like to share:

I had a Sony a6000 for quite some time now, and while it's a great camera, it has it's own limitations.

One example is it's timelapse app - I bought an external power adapter to be able to take long (entire day, night or even both) timelapses. I was lucky enough that my second-hand camera already had the official (paid) timelapse app installed. The app does it's job, but it has it's own limits. One of them is max number of shots (990), another is the inability to reduce interval between the shots to less than one second (burst). But otherwise, the app works perfectly fine.

Another limitation however was more difficult to work around: I was looking at (cheap) options to add an external monitor to a6000 - turns out you can use your smartphone with Imaging Edge app and get live view straight away via WiFi. One problem though: for some strange reason, this can't be used for video. This was a huge disappointment, as filming would benefit from having external monitor.

I did some research and came across a page by some Vietnamese guy, who describes how you can work around this limitation. Turns out all you have to do is hack your camera and change it's model name from a6000, to something else like a6001 (I understand that it works because a6000 is on the list of unsupported cameras, but a6001 isn't).

I've tested this myself and can confirm that it works as expected, the whole process took me about 5 minutes.

At this point you can also install some other additional apps like unofficial timelapse app (without the limitations of official app), and a bunch of others.

The instructions are clear and easy to follow, details are here: https://chandat.net/multimedia/photography/huong-dan-bat-che-do-remote-control-video-recording-cho-sony-a6000/

The page is in Vietnamese, but can be easily translated.

Cheers

 

https://chandat.net/multimedia/photography/huong-dan-bat-che-do-remote-control-video-recording-cho-sony-a6000/

 

in short:

start the camera
open the tweak app
enable wifi and telnet
open putty, connect to camera via telnet
run bk.elf w 0x003e0005 49 4C 43 45 2D 36 30 30 30 to set camera model to a6000
run bk.elf w 0x003e0005 49 4C 43 45 2D 36 30 30 31 to set camera model to a6001 

If camera is set to non-existent camera model (like a6001), then raw images will not be reported properly and might not open in some programs (like darktable) - such raw images can still be read correctly by lightroom and perhaps other raw developers.

It's better to roll back the model change once it is no longer needed.

Medium format focal length equivalent

 

6 x 6 Crop Factor = 0.55

80mm on 6x6 is equivalent to 44mm on full frame

The GR III uses a slim optical system consisting of 6 elements 4 groups with a focal length of 18.3 mm (approx. 28 mm in 35 mm equivalent focal length) and aperture of F2.8.

 

Sony a6000 - crop factor = 1.5 - Sigma 30mm = 45mm focal length equivalent

 

Ricoh: 28mm

Mamiya: 44mm

Sony: 45mm

automating basic image manipulation tasks

In Linux:

 

To copy only jpg files and not raws from given time period:

cd sourcedir

cp `find . -type f -name '*.JPG' -newermt '21 sep 2022 01:05:00'` targetdir

To invert colours (negative):

for i in *.JPG ; do convert -negate "$i" conv/"${i%.*}.JPG" ; done

HEIC on windows

 

To view HEIC/HEIF file on Windows 10 PC, the following 4 requirements are necessary.
1. Update Windows 10 to 1809 or later
2. In Microsoft Store, get the 'Microsoft Photos' (Released by Microsoft and Free) , and set it as Windows Default Photo Viewer
3. In Microsoft Store, get the 'HEIF Image Extensions' (Released by Microsoft and Free)
4. In Microsoft Store, get the 'HEVC Video Extensions from Device Manufacturer' (Released by Microsoft and Free)
Please note, there are 2 versions of 'HEVC Video Extensions', one you have to pay for $1, another is free, get the free one from the following URL:

 

https://apps.microsoft.com/store/detail/hevc-video-extensions-from-device-manufacturer/9N4WGH0Z6VHQ?hl=en-us&gl=US

 

Apparently this is not available for Windows 11.

Fujifilm X-E3

Finally, I've made my decision and got Fuji X-E3 camera with 23mm f/2 lens.

First impressions: the camera itself is beautiful, very well made, high quality materials are used, camera is quite heavy, and with lens it's quite front-heavy.

Operation is far from what I am used to. Sometimes it's confusing, sometimes counter-intuitive.

Good example is the shutter speed dial: in theory you can set your shutter speed this way, in practice, you can also adjust shutter speed with rear dial, making setting misaligned with each other. 

Electronic shutter is a nice feature, making the camera completely silent. It's weird, as you can have the camera set to high speed burst mode, but the camera doesn't emit any sound at all. Nothing. 

Viewfinder is decent, although there is a delay when switching between LCD and viewfinder, much longer delay than on my Sony A6000.

Some buttons and their functions are confusing, but that's a matter of getting used to it probably.

The camera is quite heavy, and I'm not sure if I like it.

Having used this camera for a couple of minutes just now, I miss my Ricoh GR II. Now I understand the benefits of having a minimalist camera. Some cameras have just too many features - this is overwhelming, and often unnecessary. A good example is the shutter speed dial - do we really need it? We have two dials in addition to that, which makes the camera highly customizable, but again: do we need that level of customizing the camera? I don't think so.

In most cases, we set the camera and shoot. That's it. If it gets darker, we might change aperture. When we need to freeze motion, we can change shutter speed. ISO can be auto. For some unusual scenes, we might just put a camera still, and use a very long shutter speed, take couple shots, and get back to 'normal' settings. That's all there is. 

Still, it was good to have this camera, even if only to make me realize that minimalist, small camera is actually better. That's still a good outcome.

We want to be 'pro' photographers, who understand and use all those manual settings. But in reality, all we need is a simple A or S mode with exposure compensation and auto ISO, and M mode for special cases.

geotagging

Today it's easy to have photos placed on a map thanks to geotagging, which is embedding geographical metadata (location, elevation, time, date, etc.) within photograph metadata (exif). This is done automatically each time a photo is taken, especially with a smartphone.

However, when taking photos with a device that doesn't have gps built-in, no geolocation data is being saved and photo can't be easily linked with location.

To workaround this limitation, there are a couple solutions:

1. use a camera that has a gps module built-in (there are only a handful of those)

2. use a camera with a dedicated, external gps module (cumbersome, expensive, device is specific to particular camera model/brand) or use camera's bluetooth connectivity to connect to smartphone and pull geo metadata into the photos

3. use a separate, standalone gps tracker to continuously log your position and embed geo data in photos in post processing.

Options 1 and 2 are quite limiting with regards to what camera can be used (only cameras with built-in gps or bluetooth). 

Option 3 is most flexible, however, it comes with couple limitations.

Main issue is that you have to keep a separate gps device on you at all times, remember to turn it on, remember to keep it charged, etc. Also, memory storage in such a device is limited and gps tracks cannot be downloaded easily without a PC.

Next issue is that this particular device (Holux GPSport 245) is quite old (2011, got it in 2012) and company making it no longer exists, there are no more firmware updates, and software supplied with the unit is buggy and sometimes fails to connect to device or download the log. 

Fortunately there is a solution for that as there is an opensource software alternative: GPS Babel. It works on Linux and Windows, however, I've managed to connect and download the log only on windows so far.

Another issue is that some older gps devices don't record date/time correctly. This is because the date includes a week number which is a 10-bit integer value, which means it can count from 0 to 1024 weeks. Such a device works properly until week counter reaches 1024. When hitting this number, week counter rolls over, and starts again from 0. First time this happened was in August 1999, next time was 1024 weeks later which is April 2019, next time will be 1024 weeks later which is November 2038. This results in incorrect date being logged on some devices.

To work around this limitation you can simply download your gps log from tracker, and adjust (shift) all timestamps by exactly 1024 weeks (assuming your device was manufactured before previous rollover date - April 2019).

There is already a script to do that.

Finally, in order for geotagging to work, you have to keep your camera time and date in sync with gps signal/device. This will allow for precise photo placement on the map. It's probably enough to check and adjust camera time settings once every couple days - smartphone time should be enough as it is already synced to gps time. (I could use my GPSport device to read the time and sync camera time, however, since week rollover, unit no longer displays time on the main screen, or anywhere else)

Once all of this is in place, you can then import your photos to Adobe Lightroom as usual and then import gpx file on top of that - Lightroom will then read data from gpx file and embed geo data in photos based on their timestamps.

btw: geo data can also be embedded in videos and other media as well

Summary:

Once I get back from my trip, with photos on my memory card and gps track logged in my logger, I will then need to:

1. download photos and gps track to a computer (Windows)
   
2. adjust gps track data by 1024 weeks offset (Linux or Windows)
   
3. import all photos to Lightroom (Windows)
   
4. import gps track to ligtroom thus geotagging the photos (Windows)
   

Camera considerations

Cameras I have noted down while doing my research:

• Fujifilm X-T20 - 2017 - 400g, 2100 body only, 1700 body used
• Fujifilm X100F - 2017, 470g, 3200-3600-4000 used
• Fujifilm X-Pro1- too old
  
• Fujifilm X-Pro2 - 2016 - 3500 used with 23mm lens
• Fujifilm H-H1 - 2018 - 3200-4400 body used
• Fujifilm X-S10 - 4500
• Fujifilm X-A5 - 1250, 1500, almost as good as A7, 1300 body used, NOT X-Trans sensor
• Fujifilm X-A7 - 2019 - 1950, 1500 used, big lcd but no viewfinder, not so good AF, plastic build, smartphone-type UI based on touch interface, NOT X-Trans sensor
• Fujifilm X-T3 - 2018, 540g - 6200 with 18-55 lens, 3500-4000 used
  
• Fujifilm X-T4 - 7000 body only
• Fujifilm X100V - 2020, 480g - 6500
• Fujifilm X100T -
  
• Fujifilm X-S10 - 2020 - 4000 body only, 3600 used, 465g
• Fujifilm X-E1 - too old
  
• Fujifilm X-E2 - impossible to get 
  
• Fujifilm X-E2s - impossible to get
• Fujifilm X-E3 - 2017 - 333g - 3000 used with 27mm f/2.8 lens, 2850 body new, 2250 body used (15-45 - 650), already tried, not impressed, quite big and heavy
• Fujifilm X-E4 - 2021 - no IBIS, 3500, 2900 body 
• Fujifilm X-T2 - 2016 - 2100 body used, 510g, weather sealed
  
• Fujifilm X-T30 - 2019 - 2200 used body, very similar to a6400
• Fujifilm X-T30II - 2021 - not a major upgrade
  
• Fujifilm X-T200 - 2020, 370g - 3500, 2700 used with lens
• Fujifilm X-Pro3 - 2019, 6000 used
• Fujifilm X70 - old, expensive, 2000 used
• Fujifilm XF10 - 1700, poor AF, poor performance, worse than Ricoh

 Lenses:

• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 16mm F2.8 R WR - 1555
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 18mm F2 R - 1400
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 23mm F2 R WR - 1520
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 R WR - 1375 - 1150 - 1190 - sharp, noisy
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 35mm F2 R WR - 1800 - good lens but Petzval effect (swirly bokeh)
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 35mm f/1,4 R - 1900 used
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 33mm f/1,4 - 3900 - very good
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon XC 50-230mm F4.5-6.7 OIS II - 1200, not the best quality
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 - focus not fast
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon XC 35mm f/2 - 763 new - good lens, but plastic
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon XF 50mm f/2 R WR - 1940, 1500 used - good lens
  
• Fujifilm Fujinon 15-45mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS PZ - 1000
• Fujifilm Fujinon XC 50-230mm f/4.5-6.7 - cheap, light, not great

For consideration: 

Budget? Viltrox 85mm f/1.8. It is good and gets the job done.
More versatile lens? Sigma 56mm f/1.4.
Big budget? Fujifilm 56mm f/1.2 R WR
Bit less versatile focal range but incredible lens? Viltrox 75mm f/1.2.

• Samyang AF 75 mm F1.8 - 2000 - 1500 - 1450 - not bad
  https://www.x-kom.pl/p/1219837-obiektyw-staloogniskowy-samyang-af-75mm-f-18-fuji-x.html
  
• Sigma 56mm f/1.4 - 1800 new - great lens  
• Meike 55mm F1.4 - 950 - 820 - some LOCA, but no CA, focus not great
• 
  
• Viltrox 27mm f/1.2 AF - 2600 - great
  
• Viltrox 75mm f/1.2 AF - 2600 - great
• 
  
•  
• Viltrox 85mm f/1.8 II AF - 1000 used - great but big and heavy FF
  
• Viltrox 56mm f/1.4 AF - 1600, 800 used - bad CA
  
• Viltrox 56mm f/1.7 AF - 800 - cheap, soft and low contrast at 1.7
  
• Viltrox 33mm f/1.4 AF - 1425 - pretty bad at wider apertures
• Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 AF v2 - 1500 - good lens
  
• TTArtisan 35mm f/1.8 AF - not great
• 
  

• Laowa 65mm f/2.8 - 2000 - very good
  
• Meike 35mm f/1.4 - 520 new
• Kamlan 28mm f/1.4 - 778
• Kamlan 50mm f/1.1 II - 1235
• Kamlan 50mm f/1.1 - 850 new, 265 used
• Samyang 50mm f/1.2 AS UMC CS - 1950 - 1200
  
• Samyang 85mm f/1.8 ED UMC CS - 1200
• 
  
• Yongnuo 50 mm f/1.8 DA DSM Pro X - plastic build, vignette, CA
• Yongnuo 50 mm f/1.8 new version - not available for fuji X mount
• Sirui Fujifilm X Sniper 33mm f/1.2 - not great IQ
• Fujifilm X Fujinon XC 50-230 mm f/4.5-6.7 OIS II - 
  
• 
  
• Samyang 35mm f/1.2 ED AS UMC CS - $380 - not available
  
• Zonlai 22mm f/1.8 - $160 - not available
• TTArtisan 50mm F1.2 - 486 - bad
  
• TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 AF - $149 - bad
• TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 - 400 - bad
  
• 7Artisans 35mm f/1.2 - $145 - 500 - bad
• Meike 35mm f/1.7 - $65 - 330 - bad

• Mitakon 35mm f/0.95 II - bad
• Mitakon 50mm f/0.95 III - bad
• 7Artisans 35mm f/0.95 - bad
  
• Brightin Star 35mm f/0.95 - bad
• Brightin Star 50mm f/0.95 - bad
• TTArtisan 50mm f0.95 - 1150 - bad
• Laowa 33mm f/0.95 CF APO - 1800, quite good, vignetting  
  
• Laowa 45mm f/0.95 - 4000 - expensive, quite good, big

• Sony A6000 - 1200 - 480g body with rig, 810g with sigma 56mm f/1.4
• Sony A6400 - 4500-5000 body only, no IBIS, very similar to x-t30
  
• Sony A6100 - 3900, better than ZV-E10 in some aspects
  
• Sony A6300 - 2000, good DR, good low light, great focus, but no IBIS
  
• Sony A6500 - 3300, IBIS
• Sony A6600 - 6200-7000
• Sony ZV-1 - video centric, 3450, best 1" camera, 2300, 2500 used, better battery than V, good deal for 2000 gone, better than iPhone but less convenient
  
• Sony ZV-E10 - 3650, similar to A6100, crop in 4K and when using electronic stabilization, catalyst browse can be used to stabilize video afterwards
• Sony RX100 VII - 4500 - 4800
  
• Sony RX100 V(A) - 3350, expensive for a 1" camera, same price as ZV-1, 2500 used, battery not as efficient as ZV-1
  
• Sony A7C - 8000 body only
• Sony A7S - 2014 - too old
• Sony A7R II - 6200 body only
• Sony A7R III - 7600 body only
• Sony A7 III - 7000 body only
• Sony A7 II - 2014 - too old
• Sony A7 - 2013 - too old
• Sony R1R - 2013 - too old, 5000 used
  
• Sony RX1R II - 2015 - too old, 8000 used

• Canon EOS M100 - 1100 - 1400 with 15-45 lens used, as low as 800
  
• Canon EOS M200 - 2650 body only
  
• Canon EOS M6 - 1900-3000, poor video, no viewfinder, tilt screen 
• Canon EOS M6 Mark II - 3400 - 4400
  
• Canon EOS M50 II - 2900 body only
• Canon PowerShot G1X Mark II - 2014 - too old
• Canon PowerShot G1X Mark III - 
• Canon PowerShot G5X Mark II - 3700
• Canon PowerShot G7X -2014 - too old
• Canon PowerShot G7X III - not the best 1" camera 
• Canon PowerShot SX740HS - 1900
  

• Ricoh GR II - was sold for 900, good deal gone
  
• Ricoh GR III - 3850, 260g, 2900 used

• Panasonic GX7 - 2013 - too old
• Panasonic GX8 - 2015 - too old
• Panasonic GX9 - 2018 - 2500 body only, 2200-2600-2800 used with 12-32 lens, tiltable EVF, 1.4x crop in 4K, 1900-1650 body only, 2600 with 12-60
• 12-60 - 600
• 15mm f/1.7
• 20mm f/1.7 II
  
• Panasonic GX85 / GX80 - 2016 - great video, 1.1x crop in 4K, 1800 with 12-60 lens, same size as a6000, but heavier, 2100, 1500, 2500 new, poor audio, 2000 body new, 1750 body new, 12-32 + 35-100 - 2300, body with 12-32 - 1900-1800-1650
• Panasonic GX850/GX800 - 2017, no stabilization, 1150 with 12-32 lens, 1330 body
• Panasonic GH5 - video centric, 5500 body only, best IBIS
• Panasonic GH5s - video centric, no IBIS
• Panasonic GH5 II - video centric, 6000 body only
• Panasonic G9 - 4500 body only, 5500 used with Leica 12-60 
• Panasonic G80/G85 - 2016
  
• Panasonic G90/G95 - 3600 body only
• Panasonic G100 - 3700
• Panasonic LX10/LX15
• Panasonic LX100 - 2014 - too old
• Panasonic LX100 II - 2800, not very small
  
• Panasonic TZ100/ZS100 - good reviews
  
• Panasonic TZ200/ZS200 - 3100 - 1900 used
• Panasonic GX800 - no IBIS, 1800 new with 12-32 lens
• Panasonic ZS80/TZ95 - not the best quality
• Panasonic FZ2000 - 4400
  
• Panasonic GM1 - smallest
  
• Olympus OM-D E-M1 II - 2017 - 6000 body only
• Olympus OM-D E-M10 - 2014 - too old
  

• Nikon Z6 II - 10000
• Nikon Z50 - 5000
  

• DJI Pocket II - action cam, great stabilization, poor low-light performance
  
• Insta 360 One R - action cam, great stabilization, poor low-light performance
• Ricoh Theta Z1 - 3300, great 360 camera, expensive
• Ricoh Theta SC2 - 1000 - 900 - 760
  
• Insta 360 One X2 - 1900 - 1700
• Insta 360 One X - 1000 - 1100 with stick, stick 100
  

• Sigma SD Quattro - 2016 - 800EUR body only, 1050EUR with 30mm f/1.4 lens  (4800PLN)
• Sigma dp1 Quattro - 2017 - 4000 new, lens worse than DP1M
• Sigma dp2 Quattro - 2017 - 4000 new, got used for 1800 
  

• Epson R-D1s - rare
• ZV-1 vs iphone video? convenience... but ZV-1 gives better quality footage and sound
  
• Ambeo for ambient sounds - 47 eur on amazon.de ~215PLN
  https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Sennheiser-AMBEO-Omnidirectional-Smart-Headset/dp/B07922P4DQ/
  https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Sennheiser-Ambeo-Smart-Headset-White/dp/B073TTRB9F/

Lens name	Best for	Special features	Price	Check on Amazon
Fujinon XF 16mm f1.4 WR	Landscapes, architecture, astrophotography	Weather-resistant, ultra close-up shots, low light	$$$	Check current price
Fujinon XF 35mm f1.4 ★	General purpose, classic	Beautiful bokeh, low light, image quality	$$	Check current price
Fujinon XF 23mm f2 WR	General purpose, versatile, everyday lens	Lightweight, low profile, weather resistant	$$	Check current price
Fujinon XF 56mm f1.2	Portraits	Stunning bokeh, sharpness and detail	$$$	Check current price
Fujinon XF 50-140mm f2.8 WR OIS	Wildlife, safari, portraits	Sharpness, zoom, can be extended with teleconverter	$$$	Check current price
Fujinon XF 27mm f2.8	Landscapes, street photography	Lightweight, low profile, sharpness	$$	Check current price
Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS	General purpose lens	Lightweight, affordable kit lens	$	Check current price

 

Canon EOS M 22mm f/2 - 1000 - 900 - 800 - 650

Samyang 12mm f/2 sony mount - 700

Sony 35mm f/1.8 - 750

Sony 20mm f/2.8 - 600-700 used

 

Sony Zeiss 16-70 f/4 - 2000

Panasonic 12-60 - 600

Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 - 850 - 700 - 670

Panasonic 15mm f/1.7 - 1300

Panasonic 12-32 - 450

Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 II - 1000

Panasonic 25mm f/1.7 - 650

7Artisans 7.5mm Fisheye for Panasonic - 650

 

Filming: iPhone with Blackmagic camera app

Gimbal: no, too clunky, inconvenient, although cheap

Binaural microphone: no, iPhone only, although makes sound capture easier

Drone: no (let's assume drones are banned altogether)

Camera: (buy) Ricoh GR III or (buy) Fuji or (have) Sony a6000, but noisy shutter and which lens? Sigma?

Offload movies from iPhone to external sd card - buy card reader with lightning connector

Zoom h1n or Sony ICD-UX570 for sound recording: great quality but inconvenient

Selfie stick/mini tripod: yes, definitely, have mini tripod, might get stick

Action cam/360 cam: hmm 

Monopod instead of selfie stick: hmm, might be useful for 360 cam

Powerbank: yes

https://camerasize.com/compact/#719.349,770.397,673.933,721.388,ha,t

 

X Series: Mirrorless cameras and premium compact cameras.

• X-T(X) = Flagship interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras aimed at professionals and enthusiasts.

• X-T(XX) = Mid-range interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras. 

• X-T(XXX) = Entry-level interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras.

• X-S(XX) = Fujifilm's newest lineup of mid-range interchangeable-lens cameras aimed at vloggers.

• X-H(X) = Newer lineup of larger enthusiast mirrorless cameras.

• X-Pro(X) = Retro rangefinder-style cameras aimed at enthusiasts and professionals. 

• X-E(X) = Mid-range rangefinder-style mirrorless cameras.

• X-A(X) = Entry-level rangefinder-style mirrorless cameras.

• X100 series = Premium digital compact cameras with APS-C sensors and fixed prime lenses.